Our bus ride to the DMZ, about an hour north of Seoul, was through some very pretty country. Eventually barbed wire fencing and watch towers became a feature of the landscape, and then we hit the checkpoint where a young serviceman boarded the bus and scanned our faces before letting us pass. Our tour guide gave a moving explanation of why S.Koreans are, in general, keen for an “end of separation, beginning of unification”. A people divided – politically, geographically and economically.

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